The Kraken kayak can be used with simple fittings for a quick recreational paddle, or it can be custom fitted for any touring or kayak fishing application. Don’t forget about the family so just take them with you on the Kraken kayak. A flat deck allows for infinite seating positions, storage options and makes a great surface for standing on.
This is an ideal kayak for the person that wants to do all your own DIY. I think I would fit into this group. If you need some ideas check out this facebook group kayakdiy
The other route is to explore the options with Brian from Legend Kayaks and create a water craft that is going to do everything and anything for you. Brian is very creative and fishing is his passion. So he is the right man to speak to.
This is just a few of the available extras: Foot brace systems for all seating positions, Aluminium framed seat, swivel seat, surf launching fish/rod hatch, stabilising pontoon rig, trolling motor, Livewell and all sort of extras and accessories available.
The specs of the Kraken Kayak
4.5 m long
74.5cm wide ( Nice and stable )
Capacity – 160kg as a wet deck
– 220kg as a dry deck
Price R5500.00 incl – A bargain to get you out on the water and fishing.
I made this crate a while ago, but at the time did not realise how versatile it will be. This has now become my standard diy fishing crate. No mater if I am in a boat of just on dry land. I am busy doing extras to this crate as I want to add my GPS and Fish-finder onto it. So I am making a little table to attach suction mounts to. Will upload pictures when I am done.
So here some some pictures with the diy fishing crate in the different situations.
The mounting of the ski uses two double pulleys and a single one. I used “awning pulleys” which maybe a risk as they do not state the load capacity. However the ski should not normally weigh more than about 35 to 40 Kg with some kit left inside. But I suggest using pulleys that are a little bigger than the 25mm dia. ones I used. The double pulleys I purchased came in a set and cost about R50.00 but the better ones sell single and are about R50:00 each. I am sure there will be a mechanical advantage as pulling it up on ones own does take some effort. As you can see from the photos until I decide how I feel about “awning pulleys” I have used two orange “safety ropes” at the ends of the ski for the time being. With Moms new car below the ski is the least of my worries.
The pulley are connected using “D” shackles and again they are cheap ones ( no load specified ) as the ski should not weigh that much. You may need one or two per pulley application depending on the pulley eye. My pulleys have fixed eyes so I had to use two shackles to orientate the pulley for the rope run. However some of the others have a swivel eye so they should only need a single shackle. Shackles cost about R6:00 to R 15:00 for the cheap ones. The expensive ones go for above R 45:00. The shackles are connected to 10mm eye bolts which I ran through the roofing timbers at 75 mm up from the bottom. Also suggest that one goes as high as is possible to just clear the rope runs as this will get the ski hanging higher up.
I have used a flat belt around the ski to spread the weight load across a larger area of the body of the ski as opposed to a rope ( which I tried first ). The current flat belt will change when I can to one that is prepared with a “D” and hook sewn into the belt as opposed to the current huge granny knot. The important thing is to get a “snug” fit to reduce the height at which the ski hangs down.
The most important thing is to get the “correct rope” for the pulleys. Do not use ski rope as that is cheap and nasty and does not keep its round profile and so easily slips into the gap betreen the pulley roller and the roller body. Ask me I did that and ended up with the ski jambed in mid air when the ski rope slipped off the roller and wedged the pulley. Luckly Mark was there to rescue me as I was stuck at the side wall holding the two ropes and too afraid to leave them and try get to the ski lest it decide at that moment to release. The rope just loops around the normal double lug rope trap as is often used on flag poles.
The costs were
10 mm eye bolts X 3 at R 15:00 = R 45:00
Double 25 mm dia. awning pulley set = R50:00
Single awning pulley = R30:00
Safety hooks to clip to belt from rope X 2 = R30:00
Rope trap = R 15:00
Flat belt ( not sure as this I got as scrap )
6 mm polypropylene rope 15 m X R 10:00/m = R150:00
Total for job excluding screws for rope trap = R320:00
I am fortunate that I have the large structural laminated beam across the garage at that point and so can hide a ski on either side if need be.
Thanks very much Stan for this info and allowing me to put this on my website.
I needed something to keep my fishing tackle in on my fishing sup. My father-in-law has a few crates laying around. So I made myself a SUP Fishing Crate. The crate already had a bit of the side removed and this is perfect to get your stuff out without having to lift the lid. I made the seat from a bit of scrap wood and it is really great to have a seat on the fishing sup. Initially I had all the rod holders inside the crate and facing straight up. After a few sessions I found the rods straight up not ideal. So I move them to the outside of the box and put them at a slight angle. The rod holders are made with PVC pipe and attached using cable ties. I use bungie cords to keep the crate attached to the fishing sup.
Here are some pictures of a diy SUP Fishing Crate.
I love being outside and on the water. One thing that catches me is the sun. I do wear a long sleeve shirt and sometimes long pants. What gets burnt is the top of my hands. I made myself a buff a while ago and I had some material left so I made myself some fingerless gloves. They work like a charm and I can still manage to tie knots. So I don’t loose the power of my fingers.
My daughter loves them so much I made her some. Now she is tiger Lily.
I decided to make a ball joint. I needed a way to attach my gadgets to the suction mount. I managed to buy the suction mount from http://www.crocsgripsuctioncups.co.za/ I must say I am super impressed with them and they are a lot cheaper than other suction mounts and I can attach whatever I want to them if I make the correct fitting.
So the first video is showing you my uses for the ball joint
The second video explains the process of making the ball joint. I have shared this on the Sealine Forum and got some great suggestions on a correct drill to use to do the counter sink.
I made a few bungee balls a long time ago. Perfect to tie a few rods together. With my idea of the ball joint I think it is time to make them even better. I will counter sink the knot and glue it in place.